The Italian Interlude Part 6- Viva Venezia!

By noon of the following day, everyone’s all packed up for their flight back to Saudi Arabia .  By noon we all checked out of Hotel Mozart; while they were bound to Malpensa airport, I’ll be bound for Rome .  I bade goodbye to everyone and soon I was alone again at the hotel lobby figuring out how I could get to Rome .  The front desk guy told me that it will be about 8 hours from Milan by road or 4-5 hours by the train at the Milano Centrale.  He told me that Rome is a big city and a day or two will not be enough considering the small amount of time I have until I leave Italy in 2 days.  After going about the pros and cons I got to conclude that he’s right- setting aside the total travel time, a day and a half in Rome might not really be practical afterall.  However, Venice he said is the next best option for it is also a beautiful city only 2 hours away by train.  He lent me the hotel’s tourist guide book and after seeing the pictures and going through the information, I was convinced to go there instead.  Half an hour later, I was back in Milano Centrale for a two-hour trip to Sta. Lucia, Venezia.  I moved around confidently this time for I know the station already and I know where I was going.  There were long lines of passengers buying the tickets eventhough there were about 10 or so counters in the ticket area while in the automated bigglieteria there were few.  I wanted to try it but I’m not about to let another possible complication (like my credit card getting jammed or pressing the wrong options) to ruin my trip, I decided to try my patience in the ticket area which wasn’t so bad afterall because the turn-over was quicker than I thought.  Soon I was  inside the neat express train of about 10 coaches or so moving at least 110 kilometers per hour.  After going through more stops than I can recall, we finally arrived Venice- Sta. Lucia station on a 30-minute delay.

The first thing that I saw upon stepping out of the station was the water!

  There was a wide canal separating the side where I was and the other side and between the gap is a huge bridge.  Looking around, I felt like I was in another world-   centuries-old structures, water everywhere, no motorized vehicles on solid grounds, bridges big and small, Roman Catholic churches, gondolas, water buses, lovely people- I’m afraid I might describe such an unimaginably beautiful city in an understated fashion.  It was like I was in a small town floating in a big body of water in the 16^th century.  Along the main (brick) road called the Strada Nova are closely-knit shops, restaurants, pharmacies and authentic Venetian handicrafts!

"So this is where the infamous masques came from..."

 So this is where the infamous masques came from.  Outside these shops were mannequins dressed like they just came from the Phantom of the Opera afterparty.  The ambience of what I’ve seen so far is like a creepy  old town yet in its own goodness.  Creepy because it looks like the place where Jack the Ripper prowls at night in one of those dark narrow alleys or a troll might be lurking beneath the murky water and ready to pounce on you when you’re passing by one of those bridges.  In a good way because the peculiarity of the lovely Venice   adds to the excitement of being in a totally new dimension.  For me, the people here are not as uptight as  those in Milan- in most aspects like fashion, attitude, they tend to be the more relaxed breed.

"Creepy because it looks like the place where Jack the Ripper prowls at night in one of those dark narrow alleys..."

There were small 2-star hotels along Strada Nova but none of them has suited my taste as of yet so I decided

Hotel Tintoretto

 to walk further.  The small streets were crowded with obviously tourists mostly in groups.  To my right is a rather wide waterway where people take the waterbuses and water taxis.  The mainroad closed in to more narrow walkways after crossing the first bridge.  Now there were old buildings congested on bothsides and I couldn’t really decipher which are ones the residentials because it seems to me that everything, everywhere are commercial establishments.  I came upon a hotel housed in an old brick structure with a petite tower serving as the main attraction along with the antique well in front.  Attached to the hotel is their small small resto with tables outside.  Though it has been less than an hour’s walk only, I was rather tired after going up and down three bridges (have to carry my big trolley bag everytime) I decided to check in at this hotel.  The name of the small hotel was Hotel Tintoretto.  A pretty young  Italian lady was manning the front desk as soon as I entered.  It was a really small space (from the door to the frontdesk) that only one person can be accomodated each time.  Three average sized persons would already crowd the entire space.  The (what’s supposed to be) lobby was even smaller than the living room in my previous apartment.  Anyhow, I still thought the place was lovely, neat and cozy.  Comparing it to the amenities of Hotel Mozart, I bet bed and breakfast here is cheaper.  But no, they quoted me a 100 Euro per night, single room.  Probably because this is Venice , I thought as I was handing out my Mastercard.  The lobby doesn’t lead you to where the hotel rooms are, we had to literally go out and enter a glass and steel door next to the lobby entrance.  I asked where the elevator was and she politely said that they didn’t have one installed as the building is that of an old-16^th century mansion or something- I believed her as I climbed my way two floors up to my room.  The wooden stairs and floorings are carpeted and right at the end of the hallway would be my room.  It was the only elevated room in that floor and just before you to take 3 steps up to the room, there’d be a room to your left and right like they were guarding mine.  The “16^th Century” thing that the lady gave me for info added to the spine-chilling ambience and if that were so, what could this room have been centuries ago?  A torture chamber?  Just a thought though, of course I know it has been refurbished from what it was ages ago.  As expected, the room is small but just right for me.  The wooden walls, bed and nightstands are coordinations of pastel colors and the bathroom has complete facilites except bathtub (I don’t need it anyway).  After having the feel of the room, I just freshened up and went back to the front desk to ask not for some more “16^th Century” infos but for tips on getting around the place.  She was very nice and helpful that she gave me a map (I still have it).  Accordingly Piazza San Marco is very near the hotel about 15 minutes walk, she confidently said.  That’s great, I thought as she drew on the map the direction I should go.  When I looked at it, my eyes grew big looking at it for the line she drew went from end-to-end of the map.  She got what I was hitting at so she softly chuckled and said it looks far from the map but in the actual, it’s really not that far. 

"I came across the Rialto Bridge- one of Venice ’s landmark"

 The supposed 15-minute walk to San Marco was extended to about an hour brought about by the countless stops at souvenir shops and other attractions.  Along the way, there were about 4 Roman Catholic churches within the cramped streets.  It would be hard not to get lost without the map as there were  sooooo many small streets that are; I don’t know- intertwined, intersecting, intergalactic (oops, ignore the last one!) with each other and bridges and water canals in-between which seemed to me like the whole of Venice is a big geographical plate of spaghetti (Italian of course!).  Arrows pointing to the direction of the piazza are everywhere even in shops and restos probably because they got tired of being asked by tourists.  It was around 9pm that time and it started to rain (sure I missed the rain back in Saudi Arabia but not here, not now).  I found shelter in one of the shops’ canopy and good thing the rain didn’t last long.  After fifteen minutes’ worth of downpour, the rain finally calmed down so I went on my way.  Although most of the shops started to close, there were still a lot of tourists obviously heading towards the same direction of the piazza.  On the way, I came across the Rialto Bridge- one of Venice ’s landmark.  It spans the width of a very wide canal and along the banks are mostly restaurants and coffee shops and a hotel.  I went up to the Rialto bridge and got a lovely view of the surroundings.  The soft lights gave a good contrast against the night scenery and the dark water in my Lumix digital camera.

It was rather getting late so I continued the march to Piazza San Marco.  Not long, I am standing in front of Basilica de San Marco probably from which, the square was named after.  There were a lot to see in the square but it was already dark specially on the otherside where the gondolas are and there were only few tourists left so I just took pictures of the square and headed back to hotel.  I went back the following day and I saw more of the piazza which I haven’t seen last night.  The servizio gondole’s  are in operation but few took a ride.  Perhaps because 80 Euros per person was not appealing to the tourists at all.  There were a lot of groups each led by a tourist guide.  There were lovers, old folks, children everywhere and of course pigeons all over the piazza.  I took pictures of the Basilica de San Marco from the outside and inside as well.  Bags were not allowed inside but luckily the guards at the door allowed my plastic bags containing the souvenirs I bought.  Duomo was more lenient to photographers unlike here, the “staff” are wary of people taking photos of the basilica’s interior.  Of course, they were not able to reprimand

"The entire concaved ceiling is bejeweled with gold..."

everybody on a 1:30 ratio (the latter being the number of tourists) that

Campagnille di San Marco

everyone still took pictures inside.  And why not when inside the basilica is as majestic as the Dumo (only this is a much smaller version).  The entire concaved ceiling is  bejeweled with gold (real or not, I don’t know) mosaic tiles that it was actually sparkling- I was in awe at the sight of it!  There were paintings (by I don’t know who) and other stuffs similar to what I found inside Duomo.  I was only able to get a few shots when the staff called my attention for a reasons I know already so I placed my camera back in my bag before they confiscate it, if they really do that.  Just in front of the basilica is the Campagnille de San Marco- the basilica’s bell tower.  For 8 Euros, you get to go to the top so I did.  Good thing, there’s an elevator where tourists enter in batches of about 10 each time.  On the way to the top, (again) my claustrophobic tendencies signalled a feeling of discomfort to my brains that I was having a hard time breathing in that very cramped space.  As the elevator door opened, a blast of cold wind blew inside.  It was really cold out there at the top. 

A breathtaking view of Venice from the top of the campagnille.

 

Piazza di San Marco

At the top of the belltower

There were two uber gigantic bells and being there gives you a breathtaking view of Venice . You could  actually see from all sides of the campagnille.  The one that I liked best is the view at the west where The Great Canal lies- I took a nice shot of this!  There’s a coin operated binoculars on all for sides and in the middle just beside the elevator is a vendo type souvenir coin dispenser.  I took one for 3 Euros I think (right now I can’t find it- must have placed it in one of my clothes’ pocket). 

Basilica di San Marco

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     I have been there for some time and I was already freezing in the cold that I decided to go down and buy some souvenirs.  Since yesterday I have been lingering on the thought of whether to buy a venetian masque or not.  But they were too beautiful to leave behind so I bought 2 of them, one of which eventually was given away to a friend.  I was looking a “I heart Venezia” shirt but there was none so instead I bought this black number with gold rubberized “Venezia” across the chest, 2 Italian berets (black and brown) and few more keychains.  And oh, I also got this small  “pinnochio” puppet- must be famous in that place as I see them everywhere in the souvenir shops.  On the way back to the hotel I dropped by a Murano glass art shop and got my boss a pair of stained glass cufflinks and a choker for his wife.  I finally checked out of the hotel and headed back to the train station for a ride back to Milan .  Before the train started its engine, I was able to take a picture of the beautiful sunset and that was the last of the beautiful pictures of Venice not only in my camera’s memory card but also in my mind.  It was trully an incomparable experience I will never forget.  I woke up as the train went to a halt- I’m back in Milano Centrale.  This time, I decided to stay at Hotel Bristol just a block away from the station.  Tomorrow noon, I’ll be flying back to Saudi Arabia .  It would be bye bye dreamy land and hello back to the real world. 

The gondolas of Venice

I could still vividly recapture the moments of my entire trip to Italy to date as I am writing this down at this very moment.  It was like I was in places where I could only see in the postcards before.  Being there goes beyond admiring a place you’re just viewing in Google Images.  Although, travelling could be a taxing and costly endeavor but that’s just a portion of the entire cake.  Along with it comes the exhilarating experience that even for once in your life you might want to try- don’t ever forget to bring your camera!  The icing on the cake?  I would say lots and lots of screensaver!

"I was able to take a picture of the beautiful sunset and that was the last of the beautiful pictures of Venice not only in my camera’s memory card but also in my mind."

 

The Italian Interlude: Part 4- Discovering Duomo

I stepped out of the hotel and just on the opposite side is a children’s playground.  I sat in one of the benches and looked around the park.  I was alone except for some passersby every now and then.  Some are jogging, some walking their dogs some were old folks doing their routinary morning walk. As it was probably a schoolday, there were no children playing on the monkey bars and the cover on the kiddie train announes that it’s not in operation at the moment.  I briskly rubbed my hands to generate some heat against the chilly autumn air.  So I am now in Milan , where do I go now?  Obviously, I haven’t done any research on what to see in Italy , particularly in Milan .  I was basically looking forward to my trip in Rome probably after the choir group arrives here.  We all know Rome is a big place and there are lots to see, but Milan I have no idea other than it being the fashion capital of the world.  Being here right now I would definitely agree to that while holding a neon sign flashing the word “YES”.  It was only now that I started noticing the people of Milan .  For one thing, it seems like it would be a national crime if women go any bigger than size 4.  Almost everyone including the men are either skinny, lean or gym fit.  And you should see how they dress!  People (particularly the locals) of all ages dress like the whole of Milan is a big runway and for awhile back there it felt like I was in a set of The Devil Wears Prada only on a larger scale.  Personality-wise, they are like the “prim and proper” type, soft spoken and basically nice  Going back to my own predicament, where do I go now?  I actually said that aloud preceeded by a deep sigh.  Good thing no one was around or they would have witnessed that rather pathetic moment.  From afar I can see two pinays approaching, finally a ray of hope on that literally cloudy morning. When they got close enough, “Kabayan!” (translated as, “fellow countryman”) I jubilantly called out.  After a few introduction, I asked for directions on how to get to where the tourist spots are.  They told me to take the tram along the main road and it will take me to Duomo.  I didn’t bother to ask what Duomo is and what to see for I felt I’ve taken up much of their time already (but not really).  So instead of taking the tram, I decided to just walk (again) so I can see the place around.  I will just have to follow the tracks till it leads me to this place that I’ve been told. After about 20 minutes worth of walk, I passed by what I call back then “the central park”. 

"After about 20 minutes worth of walk, I passed by what I call back then “the central park”. Later on I will see on the map that it is called Parko Sempione”.

Later on I will see on the map that it is called “Parko Sempione”.  There were quite a lot of people back there but it didn’t actually seem crowded because the park is so big.  There is an area with fence and a sign that of a dog and the word “CANI”.  So this is where you get to unleash your dog and let them run around freely.  There were people jogging, biking and some were having the proverbial “walk in the park” – in its literal sense.  I sat on the bench and took some pictures of the neat landscape of the park.  Moments later two young Asian couple (probably Koreans or something) sat on the bench next to where I was sitting.  At first they were having some sweet cuddly moments and eventually, they were already smooching and that was my cue- I got up and went to the lone kiosk in the park manned by an old Italian man.  I (confidently) asked for a frizzante and headed on my way.  I was still following where the train leads so I was so sure I would never get lost.  Trams (or ATM as they call it) kept passing by every now and then and with that, I couldn’t care any less for I am in the right way (I thought).  One thing that caught my attention though was the route flashed on the LED-signage of each tram.  Earlier it was Lorrentegio-bound but on the same track, another tram is bound to Cadorna!  How can they be in the same track? 

"Trams (or ATM as they call it) kept passing by every now and then..."

 Towards the end of the park, I saw the tracks broke down into four more!  Which one do I follow now?  Oh well, as I am writing this down, I don’t actually remember which one I took.  But whichever from among those tracks I chose, it was the one that led me to Piccolo Theater.  I took a picture of the abstract round wood carving in front of it and went on my way.  Not far from where I was walking, I saw something like a huge tower but huge trees were partly covering my view.  It must be the duomo, I thought so I went towards that direction until I reached the façade of what actually was the Castello.  It was in fact an old castle in the (what I now know as) Cairoli area.  In front of it was a grand fountain which I have seen in the Tagalog movie Milan.  So it was not the Duomo I was looking for, hence it was still a beautiful sight for tourists.  I took some photos of the Castello and after getting the angles I wanted, I went on my way.

I was now in an enclosed street where no vehicles pass.  Among the side-by-side restos with dining areas extended outside, there were designer shops,  sidestreet attractions like there was an artist who does portraits on-the spot as you pose, on one corner a Chinese guy makes flowers and lovely garnishings out of vegetables.  One thing that caught most of the tourists’ attention is a group of red indians playing their native songs using exotic instruments like bamboo piepes and cow-skin drums.  They merged their music with modern electronic gadgets and the combination was rather interesting.  They were not asking for alms from the watchers, instead they were selling their CDs.  I took a small video clip of them as one of the members were doing something like a sundance thing around the skull of a bull with a talisman thingie mark.  That was rather creepy that I decided not to buy their CDs (although the music was really a feast for the senses).  I walked further and further until the street led me to the intersecting main road.  And just on the opposite side was the most beautiful structure I have ever seen! A larger than life, Roman Catholic Church!  Even from afar I could could see how huge it was and I mean really huge and majestic!  I couldn’t think of the right

"...And just on the opposite side was the most beautiful structure I have ever seen!"

words but one thing I remember when I got close, I was like “wooow!” in an audible manner.  I froze right there in front of the Duomo in awe of its grandiose beauty.  This has got to be the biggest of its kind that I’ve ever seen.  Even as I am writing this at the moment, I am still lost for words in describing the masterpiece I have seen first hand.  Considering that I am looking at a structure built centuries and centuries ago when there were no cranes, payloaders or whatever tractors we have right now, is just way too much to figure out.   The marble exterior is intricately adorned with apparently different characters of the Bible, and countless Catholic saints.  I couldn’t count for they were too many and couldn’t figure who they were.  There were effigies

"The marble exterior is intricately adorned with apparently different characters of the Bible, and countless Catholic saints..."

 on the (at least) six pinnacles I could count.  One thing that stood out among them is the gold suclpture of the Madonini.  Later on, I learned from Wikipedia that it was bronze after all.  Just the same, it was really striking.  The place where I was is called Piazza del Duomo (Piazza= Sqaure; Duomo= Basilica).  There were  pigeons all over the place and they seem to be in co-existence with the tourists in the sqaure.  They would land on you if you have some grains to feed them with.  That’s how two resident Egyptians got me.   At first I thought they were just nice to give me some grains of corn so the pigeons would land on me.  Then they took pictures of me (no one would for I was alone remember?) as the pigeons went on a feeding frenzy all over me.  After the blissful moment with the pigeons they charged me 50 Euros for the few grains and the photoshoot.  I know for a fact that they will charge me eventually but not this much!  Their reasons for such price were lame so I argued with them in Arabic in the hopes that they would give a fair bargain.  Futile effort, because I ended up paying them 20 euros each.  Much to my disgust, I just consoled myself with the fact that they took nice shots of me and my costly pigeon friends.  They gave me some more “golden” grains took a few more shots of me without charging me any further like it would help alleviate my feeling of being cheated.  Afterwhich, I left them without a word and went around square. 

There were more

 boutiques like Escada, Hugo Boss around the Duomo.  Small souvenir stalls, restos gives the Piazza a commercial feel and adds up to the convenience of the tourists.  I bought some souvenirs (mostly keyrings, scarves and some tees) to give to the folks back home and treated myself to a hearty Italian lunch consisting of pasta and soup.  After eating to my heart’s content, I felt ready for hours and hours of walking around.  In fact I felt I’ve had enough sustenance to walk my way back to the hotel.  I saw that there was a cue of tourists by the entrance to the Duomo and I thought it would be great if I can get inside as well.  Soon I was in line waiting for my turn to get inside.  There were Italian guards manning the entrance and one of them asked me to remove my cap before entering.  Apparently, no cameras are allowed inside but they don’t seem to mind the tourists taking pictures and videos.  Being inside was another “wow!”  episode that I cannot let this pass without taking as much pictures as I can.  It was rather dim inside yet, I still turned off the camera’s flash to get the actual ambiance in the photos.  Seeing Duomo from the outside was enough already but being inside it is a total moment of incredulity.  More statues,  gigantic pillars, paintings (apparently by Michaelangelo), murals adds to the majesty of the basilica.  The interior is subtly lighted by  various panels of stained-glass art works- the main is found in the altar serving as a perfect backdrop.  The main altar sprawls the entire width of the Duomo, you could just imagine (or not) how wide it is.  The gazebo-like “pulpit” where the priest delivers his sermon is elevated in the mid section.  Hundreds of pews are available for devotees during service (at that time there was none).  After seing much of the Duomo from the inside, I decided to get out and check the unexplored places of the square.  To the right of the Duomo is another old structure but with commercial establishments. It was already late in the afternoon then and the familiar strain on my heels and legs started to signal the fact that I have seen much so I should be heading home.  I wanted to stay awhile and have the feel of the Duomo Square more so I joined the other tourists and sat by the enourmous statue of a man on a horse (whoever its supposed to be) with different beasts just below the pedestal where it stands.  The entire thing is about  20 to 30 feet high.  Pictures here and there as I was sitting.  One time I was taking photos of some odd tourists and another, I’m taking shots of the “bazzillion” (as how a friend calls it) pigeons everywhere.  The bells from the Duomo chimed, signaling it’s time for the Angelus.  Having studied in an exclusive Roman Catholic school up until high school, I understood that it was the prayer to Mary depicting the time when angel Gabriel came to Mary and announced that she will be the earthly mother of the Lord Jesus Christ.  As far as I can remember, these are done at 12:00 noon and obviously 6:00pm (at that time).  It was getting dark anyway and I was so tired already then so I thought it was time to get back to the hotel and rest my tired body, particularly my lower limbs.